The trip that started
it all. This is the full and
revised version of Clare Amador’s
travel article “Rediscovering Home”
published in the Sunday Magazine of the Manila Times,
26 June 2005. Clare is the founder of YTRiP.
Rediscovering North Luzon:
Been There, Done That and Back Again
The journey is always just as important as
and usually more enlightening than the destination.
The longer the journey, the more fulfilling it is…
Wanderlust was something I have always thought
was natural for any human, but a good friend of
mine said he thought the desire to travel and traveling
itself may actually be unnatural. Every human being
desires a sense of security and belonging, and when
it is achieved, the instinct would be to remain
and sustain it. Thus to wander is quite unnatural
as you break away from that sense of community.
I figured it could be, but we all need an adventure.
We need to know the story beyond the horizon, and
challenge ourselves to get out of our comfort zones
and explore. When you have a home – you know
you can always come back to it. It gives you a sense
of security that no matter how far you go, you always
have something to return to. However, there really
are people who unnaturally find their identity
not by rooting themselves somewhere but by traveling
and “never actually arriving.”
Somewhere
there, I did realize that the journey is always
just as important as and usually more enlightening
than the destination. The longer the journey, the
more fulfilling it is…
This summer, I planned a trip to South Luzon on
my own because I wanted an adventure and to prove
that, as a semi-pampered child, I could actually
set off independently and survive. I ended up doing
a Cordillera-Ilocos backpacking trip,
with the itinerary suggestions of my friends at
the Heritage Conservation Society (HCS), my Briton
friend Jason’s trusty Rough Guide to the
Philippines, and of course, his map, which
I hardly understood.
Jason, who just graduated from Oxford Law, was
with the Asian Development Bank for a two-month
internship. I was introduced to him by my college
teacher and his wife mainly because I was with the
HCS and I was noted for having itchy feet. We showed
him around Manila, Pangasinan, Baguio and Lucban.
He also traveled to Bulacan, Pinatubo and Palawan.
For this leg, he wanted to see Banaue,
Vigan and Pagudpud–
all that in exactly ONE WEEK. We prepared for it
without definite plans (he showed me that the trip
was better unstructured) and despite travel buddies
backing out at the last minute we set out for the
long trip.
After panicking because I didn’t reserve
tickets for the 10pm Autobus trip for Banaue,
we – Jason, a couple of friends and I - were
able to get seats. We arrived at around 8am the
next day, checked in at the Banaue Hotel and Youth
and booked a tour for Batad. We
took a bumpy jeepney ride to Saddle Point, which
is the easiest place to begin and started for the
long trail. The slope was gradual and it was relatively
easy to go down and head for the Batad terraces.
We came to the little food shop where they served
the Terraces Pizza, which we ordered
for merienda – to be eaten on our
way back. We could see the terraces from there,
and after lunch, we went further down to get a closer
look at the amphitheater terraces that were declared
as part of the UNESCO World Heritage List.
It was breathtaking – literally! Apart from
the fact that we were short of breath from the hike,
the view was spectacular! You could only imagine
how much effort was made to create the clay and
stone terraces off the mountains.
After that we went further to Tappiyah
Falls. The path was steeper but manageable.
The water looked inviting and the waterfall was
beautiful. We practically ran to the water, and
though only Jason swam, we took enough pictures
to prove that we actually survived Batad
to see it.
We decided to head back an hour later when rain
started to pour. It was incredibly cold, and at
the hotel, we ended the day with a taste of
Tapeuy, the rice wine.
The next day at the Banaue Viewpoint,
we were told that the rice harvested in most of
the terraces was only enough for the consumption
of the community for half a year. Other terraces
were already being abandoned by its owners for greener
pastures, paradoxically, in the cities. It made
us wonder what would happen to the terraces if they
weren’t agriculturally sustainable and if
it were to be preserved only for tourism it would
defeat its purpose.
On the way back to the hotel, I had Halo-Halo
at the market – which surprisingly had macaroni
on it! And it was pretty good! It made me think
that Halo-Halo, like some dishes and like tricycles,
is different and unique to a particular area or
province. At the hotel, they let us try the betel
nut (nganga/moma) complete with tutorial.
Interestingly, it was the foreigner who chewed the
betel nut the longest and most effectively.
At around 5pm, we took the local bus going to Baguio
and braced ourselves for the 10-hour night trip.
We literally went around the mountains and drove
through Nueva Vizcaya, Pangasinan and La Union.
On the way, I saw the silhouette of the Cordillera
Mountains, and the moon, big and bright that night,
shone on the mountain mists and rice paddies we
passed. It was an amazing sight, and it caused me
to wonder how much beauty my eyes could possibly
take in.
We rested in Baguio then took a five-hour bus bound
for Vigan and arrived after lunch.
We hunted immediately for empanada and
watched the women prepare it with skill and speed.
We visited the church and walked along the main
cobbled stone street. We also took a calesa ride
around town and saw the Bantay bell tower, Villa
Angela, the Burgos Museum and the Burnayan.
It was really interesting how they made the jars,
and they even let us try making smaller ones, which
was ultimately fun. The people managing the place
were very accommodating, and though I have been
to Vigan several times, I enjoyed it more this time
considering I discovered things that I didn’t
see before, including going inside the Burnayan
oven (which can “cook” 1,000 jars
in one heating!).
We also went to the market where we tried isaw
and fish balls, and buko juice off the kariton.
It was always interesting to check out the market
to get the real feel and character of the place.
It
was nice to know that despite being a city, Vigan
hasn’t transformed into a highly commercialized
area (though the shopping center in front of Burgos
Plaza bothered me) and I hope it stays that way.
Anyway we made it a point that we should only try
the local cuisine as much as possible. On the other
hand, we noticed that the restaurants served all
these world-class wines, but none served the local
Basi which was a pity.
The next day, we took a bus for Laoag. It was amusing
to watch fellow Filipinos warm up to Jason (generally
they thought he was American), and would ask him
to give high-fives or buy our local food (he bought
quail eggs, sorbetes and kalamay)
or just ask basic questions (Hi Joe! Going to
Laoag? Are you American? England – is that
in America?).
On the way, he wondered if we could stop at Batac
and see Marcos’ mausoleum. After consulting
the konduktor and some passengers, we got
off at Batac and set out for it. Unfortunately it
was closed because of power outage, and we couldn’t
find the museum personnel. Nonetheless, we got to
speak with some of the tourists and vendors there,
and I was amazed at how easy it actually was to
just hang loose and talk to strangers. Usually when
I travel, despite being friendly, I speak mostly
only with my travel companions – just
because; but this time, it felt natural to
just talk to the next person probably since I was
with a backpacker who practically talks to everyone
he sees and meets. It made things easy for me to
just let go of my hiya and just be open
to everyone as well. And believe me, it made the
trip easier and a lot more interesting.
In less than an hour, we were headed for Laoag
and then Pagudpud. Relaxation was
the objective now and we got into Villa del Mar
Resort in Saud, which was good
enough. We spent the whole afternoon swimming and
enjoying the sand and sun; our objective was accomplished
easily.
The next day, we went to Mayraira
and Blue Lagoon by tricycle and
it was such an incredible ride. We first stopped
in Mayraira where we waded from the shore to a couple
of small islands they called Dos Hermanos, from
where the view was terrific. Back at the shore was
a fishing village where we passed small houses of
wood and nipa. It was an interesting place and if
we only had time, we could have just gone to a sari-sari
store and stayed for a chat with the community.
We proceeded to Blue Lagoon where the sand was
soft and fine, and the water was bluer and clearer
than in Saud. In that bright afternoon, we were
in the perfectly unspoiled beach set against a backdrop
of green mountains, with a couple of eagles flying
over, and with the song of birds and insects heard
from afar. We were actually at the edge of Luzon,
and we were swimming out into the open sea. It was
crazy!
After swimming, I took my camera and walked up
to the far end of the beach where, by the rocks,
I found children fishing and playing shell crab
races and an older woman collecting seashells. I
spent about an hour just talking to them. The kids
were adorable, and Manang Ofelia was kind enough
to tell me about her life in that beach. She said
it is always better to have friends in every place
you go to so when you come again, you have someone
who will help and welcome you back. And I believe
she’s right.
That night, back at the resort, I headed out into
the beach and just enjoyed the sound of waves crashing
into the shore, the cold sand in my feet and people
singing karaoke badly. It felt great how in just
a few days I have seen so much and met so many people.
It’s funny how a foreigner could show you
a different experience of your own country. If at
first we meant to show him around, we ended up discovering
things at the same time. I have been to most of
the places we went to and didn’t even feel
like I was a guide; I personally felt like I was
a big kid out to discover great things!
We headed for Laoag the next day
and met my mom’s former staff, Tito Lando.
He took us to Paoay for the Malacanang
of the North (to my dismay it looked ill maintained
and less beautiful than I remember it 12 years ago)
and the Paoay Church (which, to this day, I still
believe to be one of the most fascinating Pinoy
churches). There was a wedding at the church, and
the Englishman was embarrassed to linger but I said
it is Pinoy to actually watch. We stayed until the
bride arrived for the march with several Ilocano
Usisero.
We also went to the Paoay Cooperative where they
sold few but really good quality abel iloko
products at very (surprisingly) affordable prices
(call them up 072-7930221). I hope this industry
doesn’t die because the products were not
only beautiful - they were worth saving for generations.
It is a pity that not many people appreciate it.
In Laoag we decided to walk around the busy streets
to the market. While exploring all three floors
of the market, we ate royal bibingka and
took snapshots of the vendors and local merchandise.
Outside, we passed an old woman selling salagubang
(beetles). We asked her if they were ready to be
eaten and she showed us how; we bravely tried it
after (it tasted quite like cornik!).
The sun was setting when we booked for the 8pm
trip back to Manila with Autobus. We stayed in La
Preciosa, a quaint restaurant that had great service
and really good food until it was time to leave.
The ten-hour trip seemed to have passed in a blur
and we were back in Manila at 6am. Apparently, it
was the end of the trip as well as the end of the
summer.
Looking back, this whole experience has made me
more mature, patient and independent. Compared
to my touristy style of traveling before…
I actually appreciated life more with a big and
heavy pack on my back. There were so many
lessons and so many firsts for me that the primadonna
I knew to be part of myself didn’t surface;
I was surprised that I could actually survive
without being one. When I got home in one raving
piece, my parents were proud I pulled it off, and
somehow they saw that I am more capable to be off
on my own, now more than ever.
I realized that if I were traveling with only Filipinos,
things would have turned out rather differently.
First, everything has to be in aircon and if possible,
we should have our own car (and maybe some
nice guy to carry our bags). Somehow I felt that
I would not have had such freedoms and encounters
if I approached the trip the way I was used to.
I may not have met that camera-shy Ifugao lady,
the American Uni professor who never tires of Batad,
that timid forest ranger in the bus to Laoag, the
Swiss guy who travels on a bike, and the souvenir
vendor in Saud who posed for pictures. I may not
even have time alone to run off to the far end of
Blue Lagoon and collect shells with Manang Ofelia.
I would not have walked around the Laoag wet market
and eaten a big black beetle. I may not even have
enjoyed the local bus rides, which were not a hassle
at all!
Jason often wondered why there weren’t so
many backpackers here when in fact this is backpacking
heaven – the sights are great, the people
are warm and English-proficient, the transportation
is easy and there is just so much to see…
I told him backpacking is still not absorbed in
the country, not even by most Pinoys as
a mode of travel. We also don’t have enough
infrastructures to accommodate them and the marketing
has never really been to show that our country is
not only for leisure tourism but also for adventure
and cultural interaction. It is only too bad because
it is the backpackers, whose money, he pointed
out actually reach into the local community and
not into big hotels and shops.
While we traveled, I loved my country more and
more. Despite the efficiency and beauty of the first
world, all the more did I realize that I am needed
here. We all are. Wanderlust is still in
me, and I have no doubt that in my life I will be
traveling here and abroad but then, I will always
come back here to live, to work and to discover.
After the one-week trip of burning in the sun,
plus my earlier beach outings… my skin has
become darker and browner. Jason was really curious
why we seem to value whiter skin more and I told
him the bottom line was the status quo and that
most Filipinos think it is prettier. Even I admitted
having issues about getting “too” dark.
But then… I looked at my arms when I got
back and found myself smiling. I realized that I
have grown as a person and as a Filipino this summer.
I have never been so proud of my brown skin.
And I have never been so proud of home.
(June 2005)
Text: Clare Amador
Photos: Jason Marett ©
