How We Got There
He Said, She Said: A First Time Visit to Binondo

That’s Aggie in the dark striped shirt walking towards the arched bridge in Chinatown.

Nards: Hi my name is Nards!

Aggie: Aggie here!

Nards: We just came over from a YTRiP Walk to Chinatown through Avenida.

Aggie: Was that Avenida? I read the street sign, it says Rizal Avenue.

Nards: Was it?  Jose Rizal must be rolling in his grave.

Aggie: Yep.  Maybe they renamed it?  Alam mo naman ang mga Filipino at street names; very fickle every political term.

Nards: Try visiting Senor Enrique's blog. It is Avenida. And Rizal Avenue.  Avenida Rizal in the olden times.

Aggie: Ah. Okay. So it's the old-school name: Avenida. I was surprised that I can actually walk on Avenida without getting run over by vehicles. I remember going to that place before and it was packed by jeepneys.  I've always thought that Chinatown was such an inaccessible place because of the traffic and the dozens of jeepneys/buses that you have to ride just to get to Ongpin St.   I'm glad that the LRT 2 stretched all the way to CM Recto, and from there it's walking distance via Avenida.

Avenida

Nards: It’s actually a good idea to leave your car in a place like Gateway, take the LRT to Recto and walk to Ongpin.  You need the patience of Buddha to drive around Chinatown.

Aggie: Hear!  Hear! You cannot take a car to Chinatown.  It’s impossible to squeeze in among the delivery vans, pedicabs, kalesas, and pedestrians.

Kalesas lined up near the bridge in Chinatown.

Nards: To get to Chinatown, you can take the scenic route through Avenida.  The city of Manila did a bit of rehab. The stretch from Claro M. Recto to Carriedo is closed to vehicular traffic, and they put paving stones on the street. There are also potted plants along the avenue.   Business has improved a bit. This place was really rundown after they built the LRT. People rushed by and forgot about the area.  I was too young then, but I still remember when the place was a real commercial hub. Theaters and department stores here were really popular. I still remember getting Lego from Orient Pearl.  Lords and Jennet were popular theaters.

Nards: If ever you are in the market for a China-made DVD player, this is THE place.

Aggie: Or bargain department stores like Metropole which sells affordable garments.  It's also the place to get very cheap massage and pedicure/manicure: they're right there pooled on the benches around the LRT posts.

Nards: And don't forget the snake oil salesmen, selling real snake oil. It’s probably made in China too. I heard they can cure anything, - buni, alipunga, an-an.

Aggie: Ah, those were the ones who had a PA system.  Did I see an Alemar's there?
 
Nards: There was an Alemar's sign The bookstore is closed.  But under the awning, was someone fixing watches and buying gold.

Aggie: Was it Mr. Alemar?

Nards: Harhar.  After walking a bit through the paved Avenida, you turn left at Carriedo. This leads to the plaza in front of Binondo Church. Ongpin is the second street on the left side of Carriedo.

Aggie: You know you're in Chinatown when you see the chain of Chinese drugstores and jewelry stores. Talk about competition.

Nards: Get a hint. Its Chinatown, Einstein.

Aggie: Right, I'm glad you cleared that up Webster. If that sight doesn't give you a hint, I don't know what will.

Nards: There are a lot of restaurants in the area.  A trip to Chinatown would not be complete without savoring the local fare.

Aggie: You have to go there with an empty stomach. It's just not worth going there if you won't try at least one restaurant. I suddenly remembered we forgot to eat dessert.

Nards:  We just had a very interesting afternoon.  Is food all you can think about?

Aggie:  Of course.

Nards:  Where do we go next?

Aggie:  Where the food is good.

 


Nards and Aggie standing in one of the large groceries in Chinatown.

(Watch out for Part II - the food trip)

Text and photos by Aggie Nonog and Nards Coll © 2006

Aggie Nonog and Nards Coll are YTRiP and Rock Ed volunteers. He is a photographer, mountaineer, biker and the perfect partner in the Amazing Race according to Aggie. She is an occasional photographer, technical writer and teacher. Their dates are another version of the YTRiP Walks.