How I got there: Siquijor

Upon stepping on its white shores, one would wonder how Siquijor was named “Island of Fire.” For one thing, the island has an ambience of peace despite the chaos of tricycle drivers hawking their services to you.  And another, the soft blue and green background (sky, sea, and forest) will not make you think of flames; instead, it will conjure images of a hammock and a good book.

Then again, fire does not have to be about flames.

It turns out that 16th century Spanish explorers and missionaries called Siquijor “Isla de Fuego” because of fireflies that abound the island, which was full of Molave trees. From the passing galleons, the little lights would burn among its forests, hence the name.

It is said that only beautiful and healthy places attract and sustain thousands of fireflies. Luckily for us, Siquijor remains so.

 

Seeing the Island in a Day

The amazing thing about Siquijor is that you can explore it in a day and get to choose where to linger. From what I have seen, there are so many choices to make. For a small island, you will be astounded by how rich it really is.

From the port, we hired a tricycle to take us to our resort (ever noticed how tricycles are different in each province?); eventually we got into a contract with Mang Cesar to have him tour us around the island for the whole day. It was an easy Php1000 off our pockets (contract and goodwill), but he was knowledgeable and had so many stories that it became a good bargain (he also took good care of us and made sure our trip was smooth and fun).

From the port of Larena, the adventure began after checking in at a resort in San Juan. We found out that San Juan has the best beach, that’s why most resorts are there.

Our first stop was the town of Lazi, where the church of Saint Isidore Labrador (ca.1857) and the oldest convent of Asia are. Eerie at first, the convent is creaky and intriguing. Every bit a Filipino Bahay na Bato, it is spacious and teems with untold stories of lives past. Despite the age, travelers are free to go around the old convent and take photos, which was the best part.  It also houses a mini-museum of centuries-old artifacts, with a very informative bantay who shared with us the history of the building. He also told us about the Siquijor Heritage Foundation, where I eventually signed up! 

Lazi also has two more amazing sites: the oldest Banyan/Balete tree (pegged to be more than a century old) and the Cambugahay Falls, a three-tiered waterfall that has the most relaxing and inviting sound of water rush. From the road, a glimpse of the falls (at that time the water was a shade of aquamarine) is enough to swear a return trip to the island.

From Lazi, we went to Salagdoong Beach where the deep blue was beautiful and serene despite the noonday sun. Here, we settled for a simple lunch at a government-run resort where Mang Cesar went on to tell us about the development plans for the area. Since my travel buddy, Anne and I didn’t bring change of clothes and it was a long way to the resort, we didn't swim but stayed a bit for the breeze.

Going there, we passed Maria where another old church stood. Supposedly, this is where you will find the figure of Saint Rita – “a black clad, evil-eyed woman who killed her husband and holds his skull in his hands” (Lonely Planet Philippines 2003) that is now being kept from the public because it scares the hell out of viewers. We didn't stop though, which gives me another reason to say “I shall return.”

From Salagdoong, we went to the capital town of Siquijor where we found its beautiful church made of coral-stone (ca. 1783) dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi (Interestingly enough, the façade of the Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi also has the same texture, though I am uncertain if it is made of coral-stone, too). The church has a bell tower near it, and a vast area of green grass good for tambay and for play. 

The next day, we went around Siquijor (town) looking for other cheaper places to eat in and to explore the market.  The whole time we noticed how old and weather-beaten most of the houses looked, and yet they stood strong and dignified. At some point, even the architecture was different and the wooden planks were wider and thicker than what I see in other provinces.

The old people of Siquijor look weathered but wise; their eyes have this certain glint that made me believe they know more about the world's mysteries than what I could imagine. The children were shy yet friendly; there was an air of contentment about them that Anne and I wondered about the joys of living an island life.

We spent the afternoon lazing around the beach and having a drink at the shore. The sunset was amazing. Though the forefront beach area isn’t swimmable (you have to go farther or kayak to the area where it’s good to swim), the peace and quiet is worth basking in. The resort staff and guests were good company that it was easy to feel comfortable and welcome. 

One thing I noticed about Siquijor is its wind. Even at the lowland, the breeze was not warm, but cold. It was also soft and light – calming, even. It made traveling by tricycle and jeep and walking pleasurable despite the hot sun.

At the end of the day though, we realized that the islanders were more used to seeing foreigners than local travelers. Obvious with our gear and gawkiness, cameras in hand, we were a sight to behold while walking around the market. It was a sad realization, which made Anne and me more resolved to encourage people to travel to this serene island. If you go there, though - go with responsibility and respect. Siquijor teems with mystery and age; you can only enjoy this place if you come with respect.

 

The Visitor

On our last night, we stayed at the beach for a while. The stars were all out and the water was calm. As the other resort guests began drinking, we both decided to retire so we could wake up early the next morning.

Being the girls that we are, we ended up talking until midnight; then Anne and I heard a strange noise outside. It sounded like a dog, barfing and panting at the same time. We thought it was some guy snoring but it didn't sound like our neighbor. The resort didn't have a dog, so we thought it was the water pump and then we realized there was no water pump!

It was windy so our curtains kept going up while the dog seemed to walk around our cottage. Lights were already out. It was a bit freaky but we both pretended we weren't scared and just went on talking until the sound grew louder. It kept on. Then we both freaked out and began praying and assuring each other that it was just a simple dog. It stopped. We waited, and then fell asleep. Peacefully.

 

Surviving the night

Although the island is known for San Antonio (where the mystery and the magic is said to be nestled in), Siquijor is a lovely place without even visiting that barangay. We wanted to go but needed more time, nonetheless everything else in the island was enough not to regret missing San Antonio (all the more reason to come back!). 

With the strange experience we endured, we couldn't help but be amazed by our adventure. After all, when traveling, one is bound to find the kind of adventure being sought. Needless to say, we got that and more. It was even better, too for two girls backpacking on their own - the trip was safe and the people were friendly and concerned.

On the ferry, as the Island of Fire began fading into the horizon and we neared Dumaguete, I closed my eyes and felt the wind. It was no longer soft and light. It was the beach breeze, the kind that messes your hair and dries it up salty. I suddenly missed Siquijor, feeling a pang of longing. Whether the wind had some gayuma to make travelers want to come back, or we were charmed by the place, a return journey is definitely in the plan.

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Getting there: take a ferry boat from Dumaguete. Travel time is less than an hour. Fare is less than Php 100/person (2006 rate).

Accommodations: Resorts have basic to better standard amenities, price range: Php 800 to 2500/ room for two.

Getting around: Tricycles are more dependable; Jeeps don’t really go around frequently. Mini-jeeps can be hired for a daytrip at Php 1500. The drivers are trained in local tourism and are well-equipped with necessary information.

Other activities: diving, spelunking, beach sports, hiking/trekking

Trip suggestion: Spend a couple of days in Dumaguete and then jump to Siquijor. From Dumaguete, you can also go to Bacolod and Cebu by ferry.

Text by Clare Amador | Originally posted in Lakbay Pilipinas.
Photo credits: Anne Elicano and Clare Amador © 2006