How I got there: BANAUE
Bring me to Banaue. I should see it before I die.

My aunt, who migrated to Italy, told me that when I visited her. I was telling her all the adventures I have made at home and she was fascinated with the rice terraces. Every Filipino should see it, she said, at least once in their lives.

The rice terraces of the Cordillera region have got to be one of the most recognizable places and symbols in all of the country. After seeing it in pictures, a glimpse of it in real life cannot be compared. It is one of those things that actually fit the “to see is to believe” molds. It is breathtaking – in essence and in experience, especially for non-hikers and urbanites. The stories behind the terraces, the crafty houses, and the red-leafed plants in the terraces are best heard from the locals so don’t be afraid to ask. You will be amazed at how rich their culture (ours, actually) really is.

Mornings are magical as you see the mountain mist set on the villages and the terraces. Afternoons are amazing especially when the wind blows and the palay sways to its direction. Evenings are enchanting - in darkness, spots of stars and fireflies are all you see. A weekend is enough to want to stay longer, or to want to return over and over.

From Manila, anyone can go straight to Banaue by bus. The Autobus (España Terminal*) for Banaue leaves everyday at 10pm. Fare is usually around Php 400, one-way. Have your seats reserved - it is usually a full bus for an 8-10 hour ride. Bring a jacket because the A/C can be unforgiving. Victory Liner also supposedly has a new line to Banaue.

When you get there, it is advisable to reserve your seats for the return trip. The Tourist Information Center is a ten-minute walk from the bus stop, and there you will find all the stuff you would need – tour info, hotel/hostels, tour guides and people to bug for souvenir ideas. However, hotels usually have enough knowledgeable staff for queries.

Advisable tours to take, and more importantly, the four sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List:

• Batad: Known as the Ampitheater Terraces; You need a Jeep for this; It takes 9 hours roundtrip hike for non-hikers, try the terraces pizza halfway down; you can stay here overnight though there is no electricity; Tappiyah Falls – where you can swim, is at the end of the hike!
  
• Hapao: At the bottom is a nice river where you could cool off, and on a hot summer day, the rush of water is relaxing to listen to
  
• Mayoyao: the farthest and said to be the grandest of all the terraces
  
• Banaue: from a certain spot, you’ll see the angle of the 1000 Peso bill backdrop. Note that “Banaue” is just one of the places where you would find the terraces – as they stretch out through the Cordillera Region.

Hotels/Hostels: Banaue Hotel and Youth Hostel (02-524 2505/ 074-3864087)/ Banaue View Inn (074-386-4078)/ People’s Lodge and Restaurant (074-3864014)

Rates: Hostels/small hotels charges about Php 200/bed, ceiling rate for hotels is at 2500Php; Tours cost around 800-up.

Tips:

• Make sure to get licensed or registered tour guides! This is important for your safety plus you’re assured to get the correct tour information
  
• If you cannot hire for a real tour, you can devise your own however agree on a price at the start of a tour or a ride, even with the kids. Make sure you’ve read about the place so you know what to really see
  
• Always be polite and ask all possible questions for directions and survival.
  
• Also, note down your hotel’s number for emergencies. If you are hiring a tricycle or jeep for a ride, ask the hotel to note the name of the driver and/or license plate of the vehicle.
  
• Always make sure you have enough change in your pocket to buy from local stores.
  
• Ask advice on the weather, usually they could say how the day would turn out.

Weekend escape option: Leave Manila on Friday night and take the Sunday 5pm return trip. Tour options would be Batad (1 day) and then Banaue - Hapao (2nd day, but start early!)

Must-Try:

• Tapuey/Local rice wine (try either the roasted version – which is bitter and darker in taste or the regular type, which is friendlier to those not used to rice wine)
  
• Nganga/ Betel Nut – makes your teeth red but the Ifugao and Igorot chew them all the time. It would be an experience to try it with them (often they would be amused by your curiosity)
  
• Cordillera Coffee – for brewing; not so dark yet very aromatic; great for pasalubong, too.

Lastly, when you visit the terraces, you will notice that there are terraces covered with mud and others with stone. If curious, ask around why there is such a difference. Better that you hear the stories from them, than us.

Text by Clare Amador
Photo by Jason Marett © 2005

*The new site of the Autobus Terminal is in S.H. Loyola cor. F. Cayco St.
F. Cayco is the street just at the foot of the overpass in front of UST